Pages

Snowbird, UT

Snowbird, UT

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Our trip to Mars AKA San Pedro de Atacama

Where is the driest hot desert on earth located? CHILE!!!! That just happens to be where I'm living for 4 months (not in the desert, but in the country).  Naturally and adventure needed to occur here.
      Thursday- Austin, Logan, Brandan, Murphy, Paul and I loaded up on a stinky, smelling bus. You know the kinds of buses that have the doors that fold in half and puff black smoke out the back? It's called the bus' breath I think. And you cover your ears when the bus breaks because it makes a loud screechy noise? (Junie B Jones reference, just helping you to recall your childhood!) The buses are actually really nice and we sat up top in the first row enjoying the landscape. After transferring from the bus, to another bus we made it to the airport in Santiago. It costed about $7USD/person to get from Vina to the airport by bus, cheap and easy. Coming from the States where you literally have to take off everything to walk through security and you have about 30 pairs of eyes staring at you as you walk through the machines we all laughed at the process in Santiago.  We didn't even present a boarding pass or ID as we walked through the machine with our shoes and jackets on.  No one even monitored the X-Ray machine as our backpacks went through. We definitely could've brought drugs or other things and no one would've questioned us (we'd never do that though!).  The airport is really nice and has Starbucks and Cinnabun! Brandan and I opted to share a NY pizza with BBQ sauce and meat. Not too shabby Chile.  After boarding our plane which was about 40% full (something I haven't seen in the states in years) we had one of the most beautiful 2 hour plane rides I've ever had; flying directly north following the Andes mountains the whole time. LAN airlines gives you more than peanuts when you fly, imagine having cookies AND a brownie AND crackers on a flight instead of a pack of peanuts! After arriving at one of the world's smallest airports in Calama and walking on the tarmac with outrageous wind gusts it was clear we were no longer in our little beach town. As Dorothy, and Austin put it "we're not in Kansas anymore".  We still needed to get to San Pedro which is about an hour and a half from Calama. As I've stated before no matter how hard I try and plan and investigate bus options there is just no telling what you're actually going to get. This meant we took a private white van (we've traveled in a few of those now) directly from the airport to our hostel. It cost $40USD/person roundtrip. STEEP!!!! But it literally was our only choice unless we took a taxi and who knows what they would've charged 6 gringos. None of us were thrilled to pay that so we thought about other options...smart right? So we asked about renting a car, logical. Until of course NONE of the rental car companies have any cars available.  Turbus does leave out of Calama, but only at certain times of the day and we arrived after 5pm which happens to be when no buses are running.  The ride was breathtaking however. I said "If you had to describe the middle of nowhere I think this would be a perfect description."  A perfectly, beautiful middle of somewhere.
       We stayed at Sol Atacama hostel for $15USD/night. The owner was a 26 year old party animal named Andrés. If you're looking for a wild time stay here, or just stay with us, more about that later. We found a little market which was perfect for buying pasta, salami, cheese and bread, the workers just laughed at our large purchases every time we came in (you really want a whole sleeve of salami and 20 eggs??). This time the hostel let us use the kitchen. The kitchen consisted of an old oven/stove, fridge and sink all outside.  Nonetheless I whipped up some dinner and we were all content after 8 hours of travel by plane, bus and automobile.  We made some friends at the hostel and hung out talking sharing cultures (American, Swedish, New Zealand, Chilean). Andrés liked to practice his english especially swear words. Really dude you don't need to use those in everyday language. Have you ever explained to someone what LOL means? probably not expect maybe to your grandmother. Now try explaining that in Spanish. That's exactly what Murphy and I tried to do. We told him exactly what it meant, but if you're learning english then you don't really need to know texting lingo. Anyway, Andrés also enjoyed calling me "mamacita" after he found out that the boys affectionately refer to me as "mom" sometimes. (secrets out I guess, sorry Mom that yet again my friends call me this). After many ping pong games and a few bottles of pisco we headed to the desert. After walking a couple hundred yards we lied down on the sand and looked up at the stars. It was a half moon and since there's a hole in the ozone layer here the moon is still incredibly bright. None the less it was beautiful. Logan enjoyed pointing out some constellations that we had learned about in La Serena.
   Friday morning called for a breakfast of scrambled eggs with cheese! Always one of my favorite meals.  These eggs were definitely fresh with a few feathers still attached to the shells. ha We decided to rent bikes and cruise. For $6USD we each had a bike for 6 hours. We met up with Jen, Andy, Rob, Mark and David and the 12 of us cruised through the desert. We followed bumpy roads for about 16km.  Logan served the consequence of off roading through sagebrush when he got a flat tire and had to go back and get it fixed.  Once we got to our destination, Lagoon Cejar we were welcomed by a little Chilean man in a hut asking for our money. Of course you want money just to see the lakes, $3USD/person.  After coughing up the dough we went to the salt lakes. These little lagoons were like mini Great Salt Lakes.  It ranks #10 directly after the Great Salt Lake as the saltiest lakes on earth. Just like the Great Salt Lake only tourists would think of getting in, and that's exactly who we were. I was the first to hop in the frigid water and float around. You literally just float similar to sitting in a lounge chair. The color was an intense blue matched with the bright white salt around it. Parts of the lake were really deep and you couldn't see the bottom, the boys are still convinced there might be monsters down there.  We all relaxed, rather baked, in the sun attempting to play hacky sack barefoot.  I was probably in the water for 20 minutes and was covered in salt. The lake had a flamingo enjoying it too! We made the hour bike ride back where by back took a beating from the sun. Ice cream was necessity at that point. You could see both the fear and the enjoyment in the little Chilean lady's eyes as 12 gringos gave her business. I had chocolate and banana with berries. Delicious! We headed back to our hostels and chilled.  Murphy and I taught Brandan how to play cribbage and typical beginners luck he beat both of us. We only played half a game so I guess he didn't technically win a full game.  Murphy and I whipped up some incredible guac and we combined that with chips, salami and cheese for dinner.  We're getting pretty good at this hostel life.  We hung out at the hostel all night with new people we met. Turns out these people would later become our enemies and make it so we were almost kicked out of our hostel.  These girls didn't stand on good terms with any of us for very long. They were just very....different and not any of our speed. One girl asked if she could wear Logan's jacket even though she had a jacket on. She decided to take off her jacket and wear his. Chick- if you're trying to get a guy by taking his jacket when it's 30 degrees outside and you already have one it's not going to work! Anyway one girl preceded to have a "healthy debate" as she later called it, with Mark about careers and her future. She was wasted mind you and talked about how society is so sad that you get a job based on a resume and a transcript. She thinks it should be all about personality. Well that helps contribute to your resume and your transcript. The fact that she's failed 7 classes contributes to who she is a person. She wants to change the world and believes that every parent that works full time and makes a decent amount of money is a bad parent and doesn't spend enough time with their kids. She also said that she hates her mom. Well I have news for you chick.... my parents work full time and they love me and spend time with me. They're working to provide an incredible life for me. I'm thankful mom and pops for the work you do so that I can have the experiences that I have. I know that one day I too want to help change the world, but I want a job so I can provide a lifestyle for my kids similar to what I've experienced. Oh gosh this debate turned into her crying and just being an emotional drunk.  I was in bed trying to sleep while listening to all this. I could go on for days about her but I'll stop.
       Saturday- another breakfast of 20 scrambled eggs with cheese for 6 of us.  We headed into town to walk around. There are about 2000 residents in this town built with 7 foot mud walls. It's comparable to Native American villages in the Southwestern part of the states. That's the best way to describe it. It was so different, but yet so beautiful.  We set up a tour and then searched for "adventure hats" for a few of the boys. They were successful in finding bucket haps with sun flaps.  Rob and Mat purchased "desert scarves" too. What a group we were. 9 of us went on a tour with K2 Touring. We were in yet another van and drove through Death Valley. You know the scenes in Star Wars where the pods race through the desert like canyons? That's how we felt. Literally looked the exact same. We arrived at giant sand dunes ready to sand board and ski.  After getting fitted for our boards we climbed up the sand mountain. You wear shoes and just strap into a normal snow board once you're at the top.  After the boys had a little bit of liquid encouragement we were ready to fly down.  It was so fun to straight line down the mountain. I think Murphy gets the award for best falls of the day after he tomahawked a couple of times. Mark mastered the face plant and Brandan looked like a coal miner when were were finished. I think I had about 6 runs including one on skies. Rob and I were the only ones that tried skiing and talk about a work out hiking up straight sand carrying skies and poles while wearing ski boots! You couldn't go very fast in the skies but still fun. Rob had an excellent crash all captured on Mat's camera.  Maybe this is what aliens are doing on other planets while we usually ski on snow?  After death valley we headed to valle de la luna (moon valley) and watched the sunset. Some places of this valley haven't seen rain in hundreds of years.  sunset was pretty and we were all on such a high after the dunes that even the simplest things were incredible. As I went to the edge of the cliff one tour guide said "be careful. with this wind you could go over if you don't have wings or don't know how to fly" thanks for the warning! I lived to tell the tale obviously.  Another night of guac and chips with chirizo and grilled onions! yummy.  We made friends with 3 different american girls at our hostel who were actually cool. Oh Andres told us we weren't allowed to drink at our hostel or hang out there during the night after the previous night's incident. That didn't stop us! ha After finishing 2 bottles of pisco and 12 beers between 5 people we were ready to go out on the town with our new friends. We wandered around town, and couldn't be more American; dancing and singing in the streets, parkour, and the general loud english being spoken. We decided every bar was too expensive to even hang out in, so we went to the boleteria. After a purchase of 4 bottles of pisco and Coke the adventure picked up. One Chilean started talking to me saying that he knows where to get weed. He casually pulled some out of his pocket as we're in the street. It's midnight and you're in the middle of the street hanging out, interesting guy.  A few people were happy about that weed after packing it into a cigarette using the end of a pair of headphones. After posing for pictures with another hammered Chilean we wandered to the desert making an important stop on the way....a playground!! We must have spent an hour at that playground. Picture 12 Americans doing 360s, backflips, balance beams and yoga all while taking pulls of pisco. Mat at one point forgot my name and tried really hard to remember it and settled on "Erika". Rob made lots of new friends with stray dogs and enjoyed having them bite his hands thinking that was a fun game. Mark went to the desert by himself and came back 20 minutes later and kept saying how "crrrrrrazy" the desert was. We eventually all wandered to the desert and were all together at that point. Mark, Logan, Austin and Brandan made their way to a gypsy tent and danced with 70 year old women and had a guy chase them out the door, Rob wandered around by himself, Mat and Paul went back to the hostel and Murphy and I raced through the desert. Not sure what happened to everyone else at that point. Mark and Logan told Murphy and I about their adventure and then we decided we should probably run through the desert again. This is when, at the exact same time, Murphy and Logan ate the desert as they fell running over a hill. That image will be engrained in my mind for ever.  After looking at the stars while Murphy kept saying "well hey there nothing" and me questioning him saying "well hey there something" in reference to the night sky we made our way back.  We ran back and as I look to my right there's Mark passed out on the ground. I slap him a few times and eventually get him to stand up and continue running. Mark made it back to his hostel and Logan, Murphy and I made it to ours only to find Andres' mother extremely upset with my friends. Apparently music had been blaring, profanity was yelled (which she was uncomfortable with because she doesn't understand english), and a mess was being made. I calmed down mama and told her not to worry that I would get everything under control.  The chicks that we didn't like from 2 nights before happened to be there which made for a bad encounter between the boys and them.  I walked Rob back to his hostel because mama was especially upset with him. When I came back I found Austin trying to wash his face telling me how uncomfortable he was, Mat in bed speaking spanish to me, Paul and Murphy passed out, Logan arguing with the chicks, and Brandan no where to be found.  After pulling Logan away from almost getting in a fight we went and looked for Brandan. Where do you start looking for someone at 4 in the morning in the middle of the desert on the Bolivian border? Yeah we didn't know either so after calling him 15 times and texting him, shouting his name and wandering around we went to bed. At 6:30am I got a call from him telling me he was with people, but didn't know any of them (obviously because everyone he knew was asleep).  He said he thought he needed to go North West to get to town and somehow made it to the hostel and I let him in. He was freezing and had lost his hat, but what a relief that he was safe and not with some gypsies or on a truck crossing the Andes to Bolivia. This was one of my favorite nights of the trip and one of my favorite nights of my life. I was constantly laughing and having great conversations, loving life being sober. Murphy and I kept talking about how life is like a wall and you're constantly moving forward, you don't know what's going to happen at the end of the street, what will happen tomorrow, or what will happen in 10 years. All you know is life is going to keep going (never sure for how long you'll be around) so hang on and love the ride.
   Sunday- more eggs for breakfast and lots of stories for me to share with everyone about the night before. We then attempted to ride bikes, but with 40mph wind gusts and no shelter it was brutal. We were again covered in sand and mud after having to cross rivers. We didn't ride very far and turned around headed to an ice cream shop instead (good substitute!)  The Grand Duke was the favorite kind amongst all of us.  We were all pretty tired and the weather was brutal so we decided to hang out and watch American football. We watched at the Broncos yet again dominated. By 11 we were asleep.
  Monday- travel day. Left the hostel at 8:30 (actually 9 because of Chilean time) and got to the airport at 10:05. My flight was at 10:30 and everyone else at 11:30.  LAN airlines has great customer service and they got me through the line and I was set. Security again was actually a joke and I walked right on the plane to seat 1A sitting all by myself enjoying the view again.  We made it back to Vina at 6 after taking 2 buses after the plane.
     This trip was phenomenal. Being able to share experiences and make memories like this is my favorite part of life. Being able to meet new people and hear new things contributes to my desire to continue traveling and trying new things every day. On the trip I finished the book Into the Wild, the story of a 24 year old seeking adventure in the Alaskan Wilderness for 112 days living on the land alone, and as Chris reflects on the last days of his life he says "happiness only real when shared".   Although I don't completely agree with this statement because there have been plenty of times when I'm happy alone, I think happiness is enhanced when shared. It's every girl's dream to travel with 9 guys and be the only girl right? This trip was awesome and I thank all the boys for contributing to its success. Thank you for constantly teezing me, being thankful when I cook you food and keeping me safe from pursuing Chilean men. Thank you for opening my eyes to new ideas and experiences and reaffirming that there are great people in this world. Most importantly thank you for making memories with me that will last a lifetime that we'll be able to share with our grandkids, and some memories that will remain in my journal.

Sorry this was so long, but I'm sure you were just surfing facebook anyway so reading this was at least a little productive!

    "The desert is the environment of revelation, genetically and physiologically alien, sensorily austere, esthetically abstract, historically inimical...its forms are bold and suggestive. The mind is beset by light and space, the kinesthetic novelty of aridity, high temperature, and wind. The desert sky is encircling, majestic  terrible. in other habitats, the rim of sky above the horizontal is broken or obscured: here, together with the overhead portion, it is infinitely vaster than that of rolling countryside and forest lands.... In an unobstructed sky the clouds seem more massive, sometimes grandly reflecting the earth's curvature on their concave undersides. The angularity of desert landforms imparts a monumental architecture to the clouds as well as to the land....  To the desert go prophets and hermits; through deserts go pilgrims and exiles. Here the leaders of the great religions have sought the therapeutic and spiritual values of retreat, not to escape but to find reality."- Paul Shepard: Man in the Landscape  (exported from Into the Wild)


Rob on the bike ride

flying over the Andes

Main Street San pedro at dusk

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Valle Nevado

It's almost spring here, which means there aren't many more ski days left. Naturally we needed to another ski day so I began looking into how we could ski another resort besides Portillo since we skied there last month. 
   Friday morning came early as Mark, Logan, Murphy, Austin, Mat, Rob, and I met at the bus terminal in Viña at 5:15.  We left promptly at 5:30 headed to Santiago on a big tour bus that was at least 90 degrees inside. After arriving in Santiago at 7am we headed to the metro for our 30 minute subway ride. 7:30am+Friday+big city=rush hour so consequently we were jammed against the window for the ride with our backpacks and many clothing layers. We got off the subway and began looking for a building called "Omni" to meet up with our tour group. We could feel all the stares from the Chileans as they see 7 gringos walking down the street with backpacks just trying to go skiing. One guy saw us and motioned us in the right direction and thank God he did or we would've continued wandering. After meeting up with the tour group, SantiagoExchange, we headed on our 37km drive to the Andes. There had to be at least 50 switchbacks on the road up the mountain. Logan said it was probably the prettiest drive he's been on. I would compare it to Going-to-the-sun road in Glacier National Park in Montana. It was beautiful with waterfalls, desert cacti and then finally snow. We got all situated with rentals and were skiing by 11am.  You know those songs that you hear and can't get out of your head? Well before skiing we heard "You're the Voice" by John Farham and that's all we thought about all day, because we had no idea what song it was and we only knew part of the chorus which goes "woah, woah, wo-oh oh...."(check out the song and it'll be in your head too) Stay tuned as the boys have pledged to make an epic music video to it . Anyway, the snow wasn't the greatest, but it's hard to complain when we're all used to skiing in either Colorado or Utah(Mat goes to Westminster in Salt Lake and the rest of us go to DU). It's just late in the season here and nowhere has had a very good year for snow. We had fun being on a pretty deserted mountain skiing fast and making jumps. There really is no feeling like flying down a mountain as fast as you can with the wind straight in your face. A cheeseburger and french fry lunch was included and enjoyed, except maybe by Mat who probably got food poisoning from it.  Going to ski resorts here you see a lot of Brazilians and North Americans so it's fun to meet new people and exchange stories of why you're here in Chile. After a snack of peanut butter sandwiches, Pringles and carrots (it was like me feeding my little kindergarten soccer team) we left the resort at 5pm and headed to the metro. Riding the metro at 6:30pm on a Friday is also a very busy time. This time we were even more cramped than the morning. Santiago's metro is the 18th busiest subway in the world. Daily there are 2,400,000 passengers that use South America's most extensive subway system. Chile is a safe country but when you're using public transportation and everything about you screams "gringo" you've got to be careful, which we were of course. We bought tickets for a 7:50pm bus ride back to Viña and were able to get home for the last third of the Chilean National futbol game (Chile won 3-0). At the end of the day I was elated. Happy to have skied, been with friends, and been in the mountains. Really, what more could one ask for? 
Valle Nevado

We're getting good at the chairlift selfies

Logan 

Merica. They absolutely love when we take group pictures! 

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

You don't see this every day in the states

There have been several times here when I think "that wouldn't fly in the US" or "you don't see that everyday back home".  I often laugh at these times thinking how different other cultures are, but yet how similar they can be as well.

1. Stikes
   In Chile if people aren't happy with a current situation they go on strike. For example, the postal service was on strike all last month demanding higher wages. This meant no mail into the country (well the mail got dropped off in a big pile in Santiago) and no mail leaving the country. This is apparently acceptable here and happens multiple times a year. Now the Registro Civil (DMV, marriage license office, ID) is on strike. There's no telling when these strikes end. You just have to wait them out.  Students are often on strike as well demanding lower tuition at universities. One of my professors here said "If you American students were Chileans you would not be going to college, but rather protesting because your tuition prices are outrageous in the states." I suppose this is a good way for them to get what they demand, but creates an added adventure for citizens.  Don't worry we had to sign a paper declaring we won't participate in any protests while here.

2. Tattoo artists at the flee markets
    Looking for a quick tattoo and want the serenity of being on the beach while getting one? Come to Chile, where you need look no further than the local flee market. A man can give you a real tattoo within a matter of minutes as you sit in front of passer byes and then you'll be on your way.

3. Jugglers/street performers
    You can make money here by performing your latest and greatest talent to drivers as they stop at the stop light.  Anything from flame juggling, salsa dancing, unicycle riding, and break dancing on your head will fly. At the university the other day someone was juggling 4 top hats in the middle of the common area. He was quite entertaining to watch.

juggler at school

4. Hitting other cars
    If you get in an accident in the US what do you usually do? File a police report if the damage is over $1000 or if less than that you settle with the other driver. Here it seems common to have a couple of door dings or dents your car. It adds character to it. I have seen countless fender benders where the drivers simply wave to one another and continue on their merry way. The other day on the bus to school we turned right and literally moved the car next to us as we scraped the side of it. Despite scaring the poor driver and moving her car several feet we continued driving.

5. Wild dogs
     DOGS EVERYWHERE! literally everywhere-parks, restaurants, the beach. Petting the dogs results in a new best friend for you who follows your every move. The dogs chase cars like it is a game of tag. They get so close to the cars as to bite the rubber on the tires. Sometimes people leave food out for the dogs, other times they rummage through the trash.



6. Street Sweepers
   Not the big street sweeping trucks, but rather workers with brooms. Many streets are swept by hand every single day.  Real manual labor right there.

7. Buses with no rules
    Public transportation here is very common. A lot of families have no car or only one car, so public transportation is necessary. You can take buses all over the city and to other cities which is great, but be prepared to literally jump off the bus when you are ready to go because the drivers rarely come to a complete stop. You also never really know how much is going to cost. It could be anywhere from 300 pesos ($.60) to 500 pesos ($1USD).  The rate changes depending on what bus you take and what time of the day you take it. There are no schedules for the buses you just stand on the sidewalk and wait till you think you see a bus going near where you need to go.  One night my friends and I jumped on a bus and were the only people stupid enough to get on after the co-pilot hopped out and asked "need a ride" and we said "sure". Our ride could be comparable to Harry's ride on the Knight Bus in Harry Potter. The driver was going 70mph while passing cars with only inches to spare as we flew across the aisle. After jumping off the bus we were amazed we survived and couldn't stop laughing.

8. Window washers
    While at a stop light you can have your windows washed by 2 guys who will use Coke bottles filled with water to squirt liquid on your car and then squeegee it off. You pay them what you see fit. While your car is parked on the street it is common to come back and see that someone is washing it or the windows for you.

9. Lack of lines
   I don't think Chileans were taught how to stand in a single file line in kindergarten.  Getting on the bus each morning to school requires you to be aggressive as you push through the crowd. At mass when receiving communion usually people get up row by row and walk orderly to the front of the church. This is not the case here where instead everywhere stands up at the same time and weasels their way in.

10.  Audience while you run
    Last week I went on a run. It took about 10 minutes to run to the beach after dodging cars, people and pot holes. I proceeded along the beach and then trough the city on my way back home. It's nice to have encouragement while you run but I'm not sure that cat calls, kisses blown, and honks were the encouragement I was looking for.

*These instances could occur in the US, but I don't usually encounter them throughout my daily life at home in America. I'm comparing this experience to mine in America because that's where I know best. I love encountering new things every day that reinforce that I'm not in America anymore!




Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Mayonnaise, salt and hot dogs

     When someone says "Chile" is the first thing you think "oh they have fantastic food there?" After spending 2 days here you will know that the food is not fantastic. Don't get me wrong I've had some incredible dishes, but overall the food here is either full of sodium and oil, or bland.  I bet you didn't know that Chile is the second largest consumer in the world behind Germany.  The average Chilean eats 90 kilos of bread per year. That's about 180 loaves of bread a year! The bread isn't thick and hearty bread either, it's plain and simple white bread. Fortunately my family knows that I don't really eat bread and my host mom even bought wheat pitas and whole wheat crackers for me.
      Chileans love......MAYONNAISE! Chile is the third largest consumer per capita of mayo in the world. It became widely accessible in the 1980s and they haven't stopped eating it since. They put this egg yolk-oil-vinager-thick-white stuff on just about everything..... from corn to hot dogs, potatoes to rice. I always give my host dad a hard time when he puts mayo on his artichokes or on his chicken. He says it's normal and similar to americans eating ketchup, but we don't usually put ketchup on our vegetables (except potatoes) or on grains!
    Baking-last week some of my friends and I really wanted to bake cookies.  We went to the Lider (owned by Walmart) thinking they would have every ingredient we needed. After all it is Walmart right?  Well we wandered around for almost an hour trying to figure out what all we needed. We found a tiny bag of chocolate chips that were $5USD so we smashed candy bars instead, the jar of Great Value peanut butter was almost $6USD, brown sugar which wasn't refined and some sort of baking powder or soda. I pulled out a spanish dictionary and asked a worker if they had "baking soda" and he was incredibly confused. Nonetheless we made the cookies after my host mom had baking soda which comes in a circular container. They were delicious and my host family couldn't get enough of them.
     Every morning I walk out my bedroom and there is a bowl of fruit-banana, kiwi, pear, and apple some incredibly liquidy yogurt and brain flakes. I enjoy it every time! We always have so much fruit in our house. I think I eat at least 4 clementines a day even after sharing some with my friends.
    Lunch is the biggest meal in Chile and on weekends is usually enjoyed for hours with multiple courses.  There are microwaves at school so people usually heat up their lunch.
    Completos- a version of a hot dog that is topped with tomatoes, half an inch of mashed avocado and another inch of mayo.  They can't get enough of them here. Every street vendor and restaurant advertises them.
    Empanadas- this weekend in Pomaire the boys each got a kilo empanada which, like the name suggests was a whole kilo worth of meat inside the empanada.  At one point Mark pulled out a whole chicken drumstick. There were eggs, chicken, beef, onions and who knows what else inside. It was like a treasure chest.
     Ensalada- Salad here consists of shredded ice berg lettuce, tomatoes and occasionally a cucumber. No such thing as salad dressing here- only oil and vinegar and salt.
    Instant coffee is a staple here. Put a little Nescafe in your cup with some hot water and you're set. Chileans also really enjoy their tea or Mate.  I personally like none of those, but I do like hot chocolate. It's great to have at home because when you buy it at as restaurant it's $4USD a cup.
    Overall I consider myself fortunate with my food situation...some of my friends have plain pasta with no sauce and a hot dog for dinner or lentils with a hot dog on top. My favorite meal here was tacos with all the fixings, potato chips with guac and ice cream for dessert!
Avocado with egg salad

Peanut butter chocolate chip cookie dough

vegetable soup

chicken, eggs, and potato balls

completo

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

La Serena

           Last week we didn't have school on Thursday and since we never have classes on Fridays it was a long weekend just tempting us for travel. On Thursday Murphy, Logan, Paul and I decided to buy bus tickets to go to La Serena. We had looked online at purchasing tickets and thought we were doing well until it wouldn't let us complete the purchase. I tried calling the bus company too and that proved to be a good idea that had no promise of an answer. Papa said they're no good at answering phone calls or emails, typical Chile once again.  So we went to the bus terminal and purchased our tickets for the 11:30pm 7 hour bus to La Serena.  We hopped on the bus that night and the boys quickly passed out while I was awake and anxious as there were a bunch of guys eating potato chips, speaking incredibly fast spanish and pointing at us at one point. The boys had a great night sleep and I got to look out the window and enjoy the stars. When we arrived in La Serena we didn't have anything to do. With no hostels, restaurants or shops open we decided there was only one place to go so we grabbed a cab and said "la playa por favor" (the beach please). I can only imagine his thought as he dropped off 4 gringos at the beach at 6:30am on a Friday morning. Eventually we did stay at Hostal El Punto. We enjoyed $4 cups of hot chocolate in a little cafe after being followed for several blocks by at least 10 dogs.  The locals found this hysterical while we definitely did not. We took a nice nap in our hostel and then were refreshed for the night. We were so excited to cook our own food that night so we bought a rotisserie chicken, pasta, salad stuff, bread, carrots and drinks. We were unpleasantly surprised when the kitchen worker at the hostel had other ideas for us than to let us boil a pot of pasta. We feasted on the chicken, carrots and bread and got by all right.  We played Pirates/liars dice and cards for a few hours nestled next to a tiny fireplace while listening to oldies music. That night we treated the locals to one of Paul's favorite Creed songs at karaoke "Higher".  We got a solid round of applause, but maybe that was because they were so excited to have us be finished! Those of you who know my incredibly awful singing ability imagine combining that with 2 boys and a Creed song, ya yikes! After that bar we stumbled upon a Rock n Roll bar and were extremely out of place almost immediately being the only people not dressed completely in black with skulls on our shirts. The idea of Rock n Roll music sounds nice until it is like death metal music videos turned up extremely loud. We left there pretty quickly. The next day we slept in and were told that breakfast went till 11:30 so we woke up before breakfast only to find out that breakfast is only served until 10:30. This hostel really just wanted us to have to go out and support other restaurants I guess. We spent the remainder of the day taking a dirty public bus with 2 drunk men to the nearest port town, Coquimbo.  It was a really cloudy, cold day so we didn't spend much time walking around the fish market and town park.  We revisited the grocery store and bought another rotisserie chicken, cheese and meat, rolls and ingredients for guac....it was a great feast.
Coquimbo port

         This night at the hostel we were all together in what we affectionately called "The Penthouse" because it had 5 beds plus a couch and a little table. This was the perfect setting for the next 9 hours of dinner, cards and dice, singing and quality debates about the legalization of marijuana in the US as countries in South America are considering legalizing it.  Sunday
Elqui Valley
Pisco Factory 


we had to be up at 8am for a tour so we definitely didn't miss breakfast! We went with a tour company to the Elqui Valley. We toured a museum, church, Pisco factory (the drink of the country. it's made from grapes but sort of similar to vodka), and went to the city of Vicuña. The valley reminded me of Western Idaho/Eastern Oregon. Pretty desolate with brown hills and little vegetation, but still beautiful.  Tens of thousands of grape vines covered the sunny valley.  We stayed in Vicuña instead of coming back to La Serena with the tour in hopes of going to the observatory that night. We found the only tour company for the observatory and were there 3 minutes before their schedule said they would return from their lunch break. In true Chilean fashion it was 45 minutes before they returned. We passed the time by flicking a bottle cap to each other across the street and using it like a football. After purchasing our tickets we still had 2 hours to kill. Vicuña is a small town and nothing was open because it was Sunday. We sat on a park bench eating peanuts and pringles and laughed and tried to solve Murphy's complex riddles.  Finally we arrived at Mamalluca Observatory and it was awesome! It's about 1000m above sea level in the Elqui Valley. The four of us had a telescope all to ourselves with our "aficiando" (fan of outer space).  Through the telescope we could see Saturn's rings and moons, Venus and the craters on the moon! It was almost a full moon so the sky was pretty light making it hard to see many stars but it was incredible.  Our aficiando responded without a doubt "YES" when asked "is there extraterrestrial life?" Interesting. He had an awesome green laser pointer that he could use to point out constellations, not available for use in the USA! We had a great time playing with it though.  I absolutely love looking at the stars and night sky in general. You can let your imagination run wild and take you to a completely different place. We made it back to the hostel on a bus and enjoyed a dinner of crackers and peanut butter. We departed La Serena on Monday at noon.  It was such a fun little excursion. These boys are characters who love adventure, quoting movies, and being kids. I'm thankful they'll always be here to protect me and make me laugh (and snort)! 
The moon through the telescope

Friday, August 9, 2013

Las Montañas

      I've spent my whole life living near the mountains. I lived in the same house at the base of the mountains in Sandy, Utah for 18 years, then lived in Denver for 2 for college and now I'm here in Chile. Some of my favorite memories have been in the mountains around the states, Canada and Costa Rica and now adding Chile to that list. I think it's the shrill peace and beauty that encompasses mountains of any kind. They're the closest to God I'll ever physically be without flying.
   Today was incredible!  A group of 20 of us gringos headed to Portillo on the Argentina/Chile boarder at 5:30am with a company called Ski Portillo Viña .  After a couple of hours of travel in the back of a van we were nearly there until......the pass was closed :( In Chile there isn't much urge for time or hurriedness and schedules aren't followed too strictly. That being said we hung out in a line of cars for 90 minutes waiting to go the last 20km to Portillo.  Finally or driver just decided to pass the line of cars and start his ascent toward the resort. We still have no idea how he got past the people guarding the pass, but they let us go. They probably said something like "the pass is really dangerous and it's still icy so use at your own risk." That's exactly what we did and we made it up the 31 switchbacks and arrived a the resort. There are no guard rails on this pass, signs that show cars falling off cliffs, and ice all over. We all got fitted for our gear and started to shred. Everyone had an incredible time and at no point in time did it seem real that we were actually skiing in the Andes.  I loved the snow, friends and the beauty. It was a perfect bluebird day with not a cloud in sight and the sun glistening on the lake at the base of the resort.
   That was the best $90USD I've spent in awhile for a lift ticket, rentals and transportation.

"The mountains were his masters. They rimmed in life. They were the cup of reality, beyond growth, beyond struggle and death. They were his absolute unity in the midst of eternal change."-Thomas Wolfe

lake at the base

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Relax, Listen, and Laugh

"Everyone laughs in the same language." It has no boundaries. I've learned a smile really can light up a room and sometimes when nothing else seems to make sense laughter does.  I laugh at the guys and all their immature jokes. I laugh that my sister puts mayonnaise on her rice and corn. Laugh that I have been so lost in a conversation that there's no turning back but no sense in moving forward with it.  I laugh when papa dances to Gangham style in the car. I laugh especially hard while on the phone with mama when I can't follow what she's trying to tell me.  I laugh that we sang Shania Twain at lunch as a family. Laugh when people immediately follow the question "where are you from?" with "Are you mormon?" People have started to figure out that I snort when I laugh and that just seems to bring out more laughter.
    I smile at the beautiful people. Their joy for life. They take time to eat their meals and enjoy conversations. Sundays are "tranquil" days meant to be spent with family not rushing from people to places. I smile during mass when I literally don't understand more than 10 words even though I've gone to mass for 20 years. I smile at the incredibly peaceful sunsets over the ocean that project red hues on the windows of all the buildings. I smile while eating the top 5 best ice creams I have ever had even though I didn't know what kind it was. I smile realizing this really is a dream that has come true. This place is magical.  Yeah sure the language is incredibly difficult, but no one can take away a smile and everyone understands what a smile and a little laughter means.